The full moon was blood red through the haze stirred up by the harmattan winds, carrying the desert sand from hundreds of miles away.
Thousands of oil lamps sputtered in the darkness on the streets. Cars and scooters roared through the night, headlamps wavering over the sweating faces of the street traders. All around us people were shouting and haggling amidst the choking pollution from the cars and the hot damp of the west African night.
We were in the Niger delta town of Warri. This overcrowded, desperate place is on the fault line of one of Nigeria’s most bitter conflicts – that over the control of the country’s massive oil reserves.
It is a place seething with the prospect of violence. Over decades, oil workers have been kidnapped, even murdered. Interethnic violence over competing claims to the oil fields has led to beheadings, riots and the burning of towns. Government troops have come in with helicopters and assault rifles to put down the disturbances. Hundreds of people have been killed.
The Niger Delta is a dangerous place to travel through. Only a few weeks before we arrived, two Westerners had been kidnapped. We were determined not to take any chances. ‘You must hire a fast boat, and bodyguards,’ Oronto Douglas, an environmental activist told us.
We followed Oronto into a darkened alleyway. Dozens of people were hurrying through the shadows. I tried to slip through the crowd nonchalantly, but I was carrying $1000.00 in cash. I felt more nervous with every step we took into the warren of shacks and ramshackle houses.
We arrived at a gloomy porch. Someone brought an oil lamp. Oronto began negotiating on our behalf. I couldn’t understand a word of what was being said. Voices were raised; hands gesticulated in the flickering yellow light. A price was agreed. In the darkness I handed over the crisp new dollar bills and a wad of local naira.
At dawn the next morning, tendrils of mist rose over the calm jade-green surface of the river. Our boat was late. More money had to be paid.
hamilton wende
For leaders seeking a powerhouse speaker on high-stakes leadership, Hamilton Wende delivers unforgettable insights on navigating uncertainty and leading teams through crisis.
Based in Johannesburg, this veteran international journalist has spent forty years reporting from the front lines of 17 global conflicts for networks like CNN, the BBC, and National Geographic.
Hamilton translates his unparalleled battlefield experiences into actionable leadership strategies for the corporate world. A multi-year National Press Club Journalist of the Year and Gold Telly Award winner, he is a trusted advisor to multinational corporations, including Nedbank, Bosch, and Transnet, helping executives master crisis communication, narrative branding, and strategic resilience.
A prolific author of nine books and a top-tier keynote speaker, Hamilton blends gripping frontline storytelling with practical business wisdom, showing leaders exactly how to maintain focus, build trust, and drive results when under pressure.
