How I found Odysseus

We all come to Ithaca in our own way. It is both a homecoming and a mystery who we shall find there.

A strange whistling came out of the scrub around me. There was the answering bleat of a goat. A tumult of copper bells began their rhythmic, hollow clanking as the herd began to scrabble up the steep mountainside in the fading light of the late afternoon sun.

Standing alone on the rocks I saw a man holding a walking stick and whistling for the goats to come home. Far below, the sea was spread out like a still blue mirror. He was staring at the horizon, watching the luxury yachts and the ferry boats that cruise the Ionian Sea. He was wearing a black baseball cap. Underneath its shaded brim his face was tanned and creased.

I was on the island of Ithaca, said to be the home of the ancient Greek hero, Odysseus. I had been walking for hours, looking for the Cave of Eumaeus, the faithful swineherd, the place where, according to Homer, Odysseus sheltered when he returned home from his years of wandering after the siege of Troy.

I thought of my own journey here. It was a wandering pilgrimage to come to the realm of my Homeric hero, the now famously “complicated” Odysseus. On the ferry that brought me through the Ionian islands I got speaking to one of the ship’s officers. His name was Apostolis and we were both older than the 20-something backpackers around us and we got chatting. “Come,” he said ushering me onto the deck and pointing at the green coastline.

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